Russells are a wholly unique footwear time capsule. 125 years ago, Russell Moccasin began hand-making footwear for sportspeople in Berlin, Wisconsin. 125 years later, not all that much has changed. While certain crucial developments occurred over time—like Russell's patented overlap stitch that connects the “plug” over the top of the forefoot to the vamp that wraps around the foot’s bottom—Russell has resisted the lure of technology and mass manufacturing while continuing to create one of the uniquely great handmade products in all of footwear.
The PH Boot is a Russell classic, deployed by outdoorspeople and safari guides for decades. Our love of leather drove us to re-think the PH Boot by replacing the standard fabric quarter panel with even more leather, this time Seidel Sesame Double Shot—a lightly dyed leather that is designed to soak up patina over time.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Russell’s single vamp + molded sole construction wraps two layers of leather completely under and around the wearer’s foot. Unlike Goodyear welt or stitchdown construction, the leather you stand on is the same as the upper of the shoe. In lieu of a heavy-duty bends leather insole, Russell’s construction provides a softer, extremely forgiving ride right from go—one that only gets better with time as the leather and your feet figure each other out.
The molded sole is a piece of leather that comes up from the bottom—Russell CEO Luke Kolbie describes it as a “heel counter for the whole foot”. You may see it referred to as a “bumper” or “mudguard” on other footwear, but the only real similarity between 99% of “double bottom” shoes and Russells is aesthetic—the full wrapping of the foot as a second semi-vamp is what sets Russell construction apart from a functional perspective.
Before being attached to the vamp, the molded sole is Blake-stitched to Russell’s “double stack” midsole: a layer of veg-tan leather plus a very thin rubber layer, to which the outsole is cemented. The double stack midsole allows for added structural stability and ease of non-destructive resoleability when the time comes, while the overall construction adds up to a highly water-resistant shoe.
All Russell Moccasin footwear, including these Fishing Oxfords, is hand-lasted and features a hand-sewn plug using Russell’s patented overlap stitch—essentially a lockstitch that ensures everything stays together even if one stitch is somehow frayed.
THE LEATHERS: SEIDEL TANNING BRITISH TAN & SESAME DOUBLE SHOT
For this collab we went Full Wisconsin—Double Shot is one of the core hot-stuffed pull-up leathers from Milwaukee's Seidel Tanning, and it turned out to be a fabulous pairing with these Fishing Oxfords. The chrome-tanned leather has a serious luster thanks to multiple wax impregnations, and has proven to be remarkably resilient. Pushed hard, it will scuff handsomely, but a quick condition and brushing session tends to restore both consistent color and certainly luster. The fully aniline-dyed British Tan Double Shot and the Sesame variant will push towards meeting in the middle color-wise over the years, but will always remain distinctive.
The shades of both leather can vary a bit, so some slight color variation from pair to pair is to be expected.
LEGENDARY RUSSELL MOCCASIN COMFORT
All shoes need to fit correctly to be comfortable. But I’ll just say this: sized properly, Russell Moccasins are without a doubt among the most comfortable footwear I’ve ever personally worn. There’s just something about all that leather directly underfoot, without any filler, that creates a simply wonderful ride. It’s a different feeling from Goodyear welted footwear without a doubt—but one that takes about zero seconds to get used to and love.
RUSSELL'S 40 LAST + SIZING ADVICE
The 40 last used to construct these PH Boots is Russell's tried and true boot last—it has worked for decades, and isn't going to stop anytime soon. The 40 offers a nice round toe and an overall shape designed to hug your instep.
We will be offering this pre-order in Russell's D and E widths only.
Our strongest sizing recommendation is to go .5 sizes down from your Brannock size, and up one width if possible. However, the nature of true moccasin construction and the leathers we have chosen will also certainly allow for a snugger true-to-width sizing that will quickly take the form of your foot—just don't expect to wear thick socks as comfortably.
At 11D+ Brannock with a high instep, I can wear Russells 40 last in 10.5D with thin socks, but have found 10.5E to be my preferred size for a bit more overall space with zero performance compromises.
Russell’s moccasin construction can be quite forgiving, especially side to side. But you never want to size short!!
If you need more help nailing your size, please contact us here.
IMPORTANT!!: WHAT TO EXPECT—AND NOT EXPECT—FROM RUSSELL MOCCASIN FOOTWEAR
Russell Moccasin creates truly handmade products. Variance is inherent in this type of footwear—it’s 100% to be expected. Russell CEO Luke Kolbie can tell who made a shoe just by looking at it. There’s something incredibly beautiful about that.
Given that, if you are looking for an aesthetically “perfect,” symmetrical, millimeter-for-millimeter identical pair of footwear, we would strongly recommend not purchasing Russell Moccasins!! It's not what the brand creates.
On the other hand, if you’re looking for something that is jammed full of soul and craft and insane comfort—handmade “imperfections” and all—we fully believe that you will deeply love Russell Moccasin, and these Fishing Oxfords in particular.
THE SPECS
-Russell Moccasin’s 40 last
-Single vamp w/ molded sole construction
-Seidel Tanning British Tan & Sesame Double Shot upper
-Double stack midsole w/ natural edge
-Brown Vibram Aspen Gumlite lugged outsole
-Antique Brass Eyelets
-Handmade in Wisconsin by Russell Moccasin
THIS PRODUCT IS FINAL SALE—NO RETURNS OR EXCHANGES WILL BE HONORED