THIS IS A PRE-ORDER WITH AN ESTIMATED DELIVERY OF JULY 2023, AND A TOTAL PRICE OF $500. A 50% DEPOSIT OF $250 IS REQUIRED TO SECURE YOUR ORDER. THE FINAL $250 WILL BE INVOICED PRIOR TO DELIVERY.
As far as we can tell, nobody's ever made unlined horsebutt penny loafers before. Ever! Until right now.
The "why" is the part we just can't figure out. Because when you take greenish/greyish, patina-mad waxy Salvia horsebutt from Italian veg-tannery Conceria Maryam, make very sure that nobody throws any lining in there, and combine it with a 100% natural latex rubber Lactae Hevea outsole (one of the most comfortable we've worn), the overall package is...well, really quite something.
Constructed on Rider Boot's 86 loafer last at our Cortina partner factory in Giussano, Italy about 40 mins north of Milan, we consider our semi-chonk Uncle Sal loafers to be "high-performing floppers"—the kind of shoes you can jump right into. The lack of a lining (plus an extra wax treatment on the custom Maryam horsebutt) offers hugely serious comfort. The tradeoff? The absence of structure is noticeable.
What's that end up meaning? Well, would we chose these loafers to run a 10k? No. Have we gone for hikes on hilly off-piste terrain, just to see if they could handle it? Yes! Did they? Handle it?? Also yes. In our wear tests we've found the heel to raise a bit more than a truly locked-in, super-snug loafer, but rarely fully exit the gravity of the heel counter and overall shoe. Which ends up working pretty perfectly.
Why are we telling you all this? So you know what you're getting into! Which we feel is very important. But if all the above sounds good, these might just be the unlined horsebutt penny loafers for you (reminder: there are currently not other unlined horsebutt penny loafers).
SIZING
Our Uncle Sal loafers are available in two widths: D and EE—with EE widths featuring exclusively a wider forefoot thanks to a last buildup. Meaning: on EE, the heel (important especially on an unlined loafer), instep, etc are all essentially identical to the D width.
We've found .5 sizes down from Brannock to be a very nice comfortable fit with some of the aforementioned pleasing flop to it all. Sizing down 1 full size is definitely a possibility for a snugger heel lock, although obviously could lead to some undue tightness in the forefoot. Staying true to Brannock size is a true gambling individuals' move, but just might work if you like your loafers fitting quite gigantic.
If you want to chat about sizing, please reach out to the one and only Ron Rider via the @riderbootco Instagram account.
TWO OTHER VERY IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW
1) Leather is a natural material which is, by its nature, quite variable. Horsebutt is an even more variable product. Vegetable-tanned leathers are among the most variable anywhere. This vegetable tanned horsebutt leather is beautiful and fascinating and honestly just pretty damn sweet because of its variability—not despite it. While color, finish including wax content, and overall temper should be largely similar, no customer should expect an identical pair of shoes to these. Embrace the variability.
2) These loafers are made with a Blake Rapid construction that is well-mastered in Italy (including, certainly, by Cortina). Thanks to a 3mm thick veg-tan leather insole + midsole, they offer an appealingly sturdy underfoot feel similar to Goodyear welt footwear. But a combination of the construction and the natural Lactae Hevea outsole make for a more flexible product in our opinion—ideal for an unlined loafer.
THAT SAID, the nature of Blake constructed footwear is to have the Blake stitch present underfoot—you can touch and feel it, and so can your feet. All of this is to say that customers should understand the risk of ever-so-slight, stitching-borne discomfort if engaging in brazen sockless usage. Or you can just wear socks, or pop in an insole, and everything will likely be just great.
THE SPECS
-Classic penny loafer pattern
-Built on Rider Boot's 86 last
-100% natural latex rubber Lactae Hevea Rangers outsole
-Blake Rapid construction
-Upper: unlined, hyper-waxy Salvia veg-tan horsebutt from Italian horse leather specialists Conceria Maryam
-Insole: 3mm veg-tan leather
-Produced with Ron Rider at the Cortina factory in Giussano, Italy